I find myself tucked away in a comer of a bustling eatery where pandemonium reigns supreme. Inside, the decor is dizzying—vintage neon lights, gilded dragons, and massive iron barriers create an intriguing atmosphere. The atmosphere is electric.
In recent moments, six large shared dishes have been placed on our table. Upon quickly calculating the total cost, I am amazed to find out that this abundant meal came to just £88.
I find it difficult to keep up my etiquette as I see steam rising from the main course — an exquisite lobster drenched in a rich, sugary sauce.
Conversations mean nothing to me now. I'm prepared to dine.
Of course, I am in Hong Kong, a dynamic metropolis sure to overwhelm your senses with its remarkable vibrancy. Whether you're indulging in globally celebrated street cuisine or interacting with some of the most welcoming individuals on the planet, this renowned hub for gastronomy is an ideal destination for any traveler.
And, as tourism Once the destination finally rebounds from the pandemic – with 44.5 million international visitors arriving in 2024, marking a 40% increase over the prior year – there has never been a more thrilling moment to explore this culinary haven.
First impressions
Following a 13-hour journey, I'm relieved to arrive at our initial lodging, the four-star Dorsett Wan Chai Hotel. The price is quite reasonable, beginning at just HK$700 (£69) for each night. Situated precisely amidst the bustling commercial hub of Wan Chai and the lively entertainment district of Causeway Bay, this location offers easy access to numerous markets and fashionable boutiques nearby.
When I step into my room, I get the feeling of being the protagonist in a romantic comedy. I make a direct path to the massive bed and do a forward dive. However, my attention shifts when I notice the scenery outside my full-height window: modern high-rises standing side-by-side with structures from the 1800s.
I can also spot the Happy Valley racetrack, said to be the premier place for midweek night life. For just an entrance fee of HK$10 (99p), both residents and tourists come together for 'Happy Wednesday,' a peculiar mix of horse races, entertainment, and delicious food and drinks.
The hotel is incredibly welcoming; one might easily find themselves diving between the beds, enjoying room service, and observing life pass by from their window. However, recognizing this as an extraordinary journey, I gather my strength to venture out and discover nighttime Hong Kong, taking advantage of the complimentary five-minute shuttle ride from the hotel to Central.
Surrounded by vibrant lighting and bustling eateries, I am overwhelmed by the sense of security in this metropolis home to 7.5 million residents. For women, travel often involves an extra layer of vigilance—always keeping an eye on one's belongings and staying aware of one's surroundings.
Yet here, I find myself freely taking in each noise, vision, and scent. It feels incredibly freeing.
A culinary haven
There’s no denying that Hong Kong is a haven for food enthusiasts. The culinary scene is renowned, offering an array of options ranging from classic Cantonese eateries to high-end restaurants earning Michelin stars, which blend indigenous ingredients and tastes with global inspirations. Traditional street food remains highly popular in this city.
While visiting Cheung Chau Island, which lies 10 kilometers southwest of Hong Kong Island and serves as a popular escape for locals during the summertime, I make my way to a vendor located along the water’s edge.
As I admire the vibrant wooden boats gently swaying on the water, I savor a delectable egg tart. Each mouthful is divine, with its flaky, buttery crust giving way to rich, velvety custard, all for just HK$12.5 (£1.24). Upon returning to Central, I notice a throng of people lining up for the same treat at the popular Bakehouse. What was once an obscure favorite has now become quite famous. TikTok has turned the bakery into a Hong Kong institution.
I still relish the tangy flavor as I head over to Café Bau in Wan Chai, a farm-to-table themed eatery led by Michelin-starred chef Alvin Leung.
Similar to all my previous dining experiences, I am amazed by the abundance of dishes served. While enjoying an eight-course tasting menu that includes items such as pork knuckle and spiny lobster, I feel as though I'm indulging in a feast. Man v. Food . Even though my belly is satisfied, my taste buds compel me to eat every last bit. After all, this could be the sole opportunity I get to sample it, considering the fixed menu costs HK$1,288 (£128.48) per person.
For my sweet finish, I stop by Bar Leone, an atmospheric spot known for its moody ambiance and named as the top bar in Asia for 2024. There, I sample a smooth Olive Oil Sour priced at HK$150 (£14.90), which goes well with some garlicky olives. One thing you definitely won’t experience in Hong Kong is hunger.
'S Top Hack in Hong Kong
Board a ferry at Central Pier heading to Cheung Chau Island. The trip takes about half an hour and will cost you HK$23.20 (£2.31). An Octopus Card serves as my payment method—a rechargeable, contactless smart card specific to Hong Kong. Think of it like an enhanced version of an Oyster card since you can also utilize it for meals, leisure activities, and purchases. Simply load some credit onto your card before setting off.
A changing cityscape
Hong Kong serves as Asia's premier center for the arts. Each March, the city turns into a vast exhibition space. Art lovers and creators come together from across the globe, with installations, exhibits, and shows taking precedence throughout the area.
Graffiti and street art play a major role in innovative atmosphere in Hong Kong , and one cannot overlook the impact of both Eastern and Western influences. (Hong Kong was under a contentious 156-year British rule prior to being handed over) China in 1997.)
In every neighborhood, you'll find Instagram-worthy murals painted on walls, ranging from sanctioned to unsanctioned artworks.
While on a walking tour with Wanderlust Walks Our guide, Alex, navigates us through the vibrant neighborhoods of Central and Sheung Wan, recounting 'off-the-beaten-path' tales. These stories often shed light on the societal challenges faced by Hong Kong.
A local guerrilla artist named Go Hung produces street art installations using reclaimed materials. His renowned nest series, featuring colorful lettering reading 'rent high' placed within baskets hung from tree branches, addresses the housing crisis and soaring real estate costs in the area.
An affordable long-haul
For my last couple of evenings, I'm staying at the luxurious 5-star Dorsett Kai Tak. Although Hong Kong's cost of living can vary based on your location, hotel prices here tend to be reasonably priced overall.
Upon discovering the city’s luxurious rooftop bars and infinity pools, I find it surprising that my accommodation costs only HK$973 (£96.79) per night.
Across from the hotel lies Kai Tak Sports Park, which stands as Hong Kong’s biggest sporting facility. While enjoying my early-morning coffee, I observe athletes racing around the track, turning my view into a personal Games event.
The park serves not only as a key entertainment hub but also as a venue for concerts, which makes it an ideal spot to remain at if you possess a ticket to any happening there.
The Kai Tak district is home to numerous karaoke bars. I had an incredible experience at a small joint just a few minutes away from my hotel, singing my heart out. Amy Winehouse While enjoying a glass of Blue Girl, the local Hong Kong brew, karaoke comes at no extra cost. A shared pitcher containing six 330ml bottles of beer is priced at HK$180 (£17.88).
With departure looming, I'm crestfallen that I could merely skim the surface of this enchanting location. Between the warmest folks and the delectable cuisine, I find myself with a void shaped like Hong Kong in my heart.
Where to find directions for reaching Hong Kong and the optimal period to visit.
The shoulder seasons in Hong Kong occur from March through early May and again from September to early October, with temperatures ranging between 21°C and 28°C. Since this is typically a place where travelers tend to stick to an itinerary rather than spend time at the beach, these periods offer ideal weather conditions along with smaller crowds for making the most out of your visit to Hong Kong. In contrast, summer can be extremely hot and humid, frequently climbing up to 31°C.
We travel with Finnair as our airline from London Heathrow to Helsinki And moving on to Hong Kong. Economy return tickets start at £532. The seats in the newly awarded business class cabin begin at £2,025. As a first-time traveler in business class, I feel like a kid in a candy store, amazed by the innovative non-reclining seat.
I switch Emilia Perez On my spacious 18-inch display, I savor several glasses of champagne alongside some delicious pesto pasta until my eyelids grow heavy. However, there’s no cause for concern as I press the button that converts my cozy recliner into a bed. After putting on my sleep mask, I drift off into a peaceful slumber. The innovative mood lighting (designed to alleviate jet lag symptoms) serves as a thoughtful gesture, while the 'Do Not Disturb' sign placed outside my suite informs the amiable flight attendants that I'm fast asleep.
Sophie-May Williams was a visitor sponsored by the Hong Kong Tourism Board and FinnAir.
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